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Saint-Jean-Baptiste Day at Gus's Red Hots
Today, June 24, is Saint-Jean-Baptiste Day in Quebec. I have to admit that until June 24, 1966 I had never heard of the Canadian holiday. But that day so long ago was my introduction to the restaurant business, and I've never forgotten it.
As I was about ready to graduate from high school back in '66, it was agreed in the Gagnon family that it would be the responsible thing if I helped pay some of my way through college at Plattsburgh State. So, I went job searching. My mom noticed there was an opening for a short-order cook at Gus's Red Hots over by the city beach.
I went in one day and I asked to fill out an application. Instead, I was granted an on-the-spot interview with Gus Niforos, one of the restaurant's owners. We sat at the lunch counter and I don't really remember what questions he asked. He must have asked if I had any experience cooking. I didn't want to disappoint him so I'm sure I mentioned that I could make a grilled cheese sandwich without burning it, and I knew how to warm up a can of Campbell's chicken noodle soup.
For some reason I was hired. I always wondered if I was the only one who applied for the job. If I recall correctly, the restaurant opened at 11:45am, and I reported for my first day as short-order cook at 11:30am on June 24, 1966.
I'll never forget it, because Pete Larios, the other owner, told me that it was Saint-Jean-Baptiste Day and I just shrugged my shoulders, not realizing what that meant. I took my position in the cook's area, and I was assigned to cook french fries and onion rings. I looked at my choices: do I put those frozen fries on the grill or in the grease? I'm sure when I asked that question, Pete and Gus looked at each other, thinking, "What kind of dummy did we hire here?"
When the doors opened at 11:45am, I immediately saw what Saint-Jean-Baptiste Day meant. It meant everyone, absolutely everyone, who lived in Quebec came to eat lunch at Gus's Red Hots in Plattsburgh. Within two minutes the restaurant, booths and lunch counter, was full of customers waving that colorful Canadian money.
My job turned out to be easy. Open the bag of frozen fries, grab a few handfuls and put them in the baskets (I had been a basketball star in high school, so maybe that's why they hired me!) and cook those fries. And keep doing that! And dish out a scoop of those fries into each cardboard container. And keep doing that!
My initiation into the restaurant business was fun and easy. Working with Gus and Pete, and Gus's sons, Ernie and George, I had a great time. But the best part was yet to come.
For six hours I cooked fries and onion rings, grease swirling up into my face. Anytime I wanted I could go to the soda dispenser and pour myself a soda. Free soda -- can you imagine that?
As long as they didn't have to wait too long for the fries and rings, I could be a star in this business. But then what I saw happen next, I just couldn't believe. For six hours straight, without a break, the teams of cooks and waitresses worked. For six hours straight, the restaurant was jam-packed, even with customers crowding inside or waiting outside just to get a michigan.
But at exactly 6 o'clock, with the parking lot full, I couldn't believe my eyes when Gus went to the front door and locked it. He was closing! He told the staff to feed the people inside and that the people outside would just have to wait or go without. Maybe some of the customers drove away down the road to the Orange Julep, I don't know.
But Gus told us that we all needed a break! And around 7pm, after every customer had left, we all sat down, ate a michigan and enjoyed some of Foxy's first-day-on-the-job fries. It sure made me realize that Gus and Pete were going to be special kinds of bosses. Who in the world would turn away business so that we could get our break?
Then, around 7:30pm, when Gus unlocked the front door and we were all back at our work stations, the crowds piled in, saying things like, "Boy, are we hungry" in French. In another minute or two the restaurant was packed again, and stayed that way until the midnight closing.
I stayed at Gus's Red Hots during my four years of college. And the same thing happened every June 24, Saint-Jean-Baptiste Day. Gus and Pete were great bosses, and, in time, I became almost a part of their family. I even learned a few Greek expressions and danced a few Greek dances in my time as friends of the Niforos and Larios families.
I'm sure that June 24 means a lot more to those living in Quebec, but to this guy in Plattsburgh it always brings back fond memories of my first day in the restaurant business back in 1966.
Comments
Foxy:
Your name is Gagnon. Aren't your ancestors French-Canadian?
David Graham
Professor of French Clinton Community College
(Foxy's note: Yes, if you trace my roots back several generations, you find some original French/Canadians. However, in college I gave up my "French" pronunciation of my last name for the "Anglosized" GAG-NON.)
Posted by: David Graham | August 30, 2007 6:26 PM
Been there, done that. Gus's, A&W, Orange Julip, Nitzi's, Clare & Carls. Actually it was the Montreal Jewish community that invaded Plattsburgh in the late fifties followed by the French Canadians in the sixties and seventies.
Times have changed, and trips to a beach 60 miles away are passe. People are more affluent, and either have swimming pools or a chalet in the Laurentians. Years ago Montreal built an artificial beach on the La Ronde sight, it's a lot closer than Plattsburgh.
But if you want a genuine Michigan Red Hot, Plattsburgh is the real deal.
Posted by: norm | June 29, 2007 9:57 PM
You bring back lots of memories but I haven't been back in many years and have had to learn to make our own 'michigans' here in Jalisco, Mexico. Might just have to go make one now since the meat sauce is in the refrigerator. I also now understand why hot dog buns are called 'medias noches' in Spanish.
Bob (PHS 1955)
Chapala, Jalisco, Mexico
Posted by: Bob Glenn | June 26, 2007 3:54 PM
Foxy:
I can remember the A&W by the bridge. We always rode our bikes from South Catherine St to the city beach and always stopped there for a rootbeer float. It seems lake a lifetime ago!
Beef
(Foxy's note: Yes, I miss the A&W ... I remember those cardboard root beer containers for a root beer "to go.")
Posted by: BRENNER3 | June 26, 2007 2:34 PM
Foxy: How much money does Jim owe you? Fred F.
Posted by: Fred Forkey | June 25, 2007 9:10 PM
…And the chocolate shakes were to die for! My grandfather would bring my grandmother and I there whenever I would do a sleepover. I used to get a Michigan, onion rings, and a chocolate shake. I used to make the mistake of drinking too much of my shake and then having a full stomach and not being able to eat my onion rings. I also remember going there a few times when the door was locked with a line down the front of the building. We would then go over to Howard Johnson’s instead where you could watch cartoons while eating your fish-sticks and fries.
(Foxy's note: More great memories, Kern!)
Posted by: Kern | June 25, 2007 10:44 AM
Hi, Foxy, Gus and Pete and their families were good friends of ours....and i worked for them one summer when they rented the Beachhouse..... I worked the cash register and I rrememer some of our northern friends order "hamburghers all dressed up". That was a very busy summer for me because i was also taking some Courses at PSUC working toward my Masters
Ray Ducatte
Posted by: Ray Ducatte | June 25, 2007 9:56 AM
My wife, my brother Ernie and I were in Plattsburgh just last week and went to Gus' for some michigans. We talked about those Canadian holidays when my father or uncle locked the door so we could get a break, clean up, restock, etc. We recalled how the traffic was still coming off the beach, bumper to bumper at 9 pm. You're right, non-stop michigans, fries and hamburgers for hours while the hungry Canadians flocked in. It sure seems different now.
(Foxy's note: Great to hear from my old Gus's sidekick, George, who is Gus's son.)
Posted by: George Niforos | June 25, 2007 8:57 AM
Sorry Foxy, Leslie made the best michigans in the North Country over @ the Astrodome, although I really loved going to Toot N' Tellum too. Today, McSweeny's has the best. Emily, tell Sexy Rexy I said hi.
Posted by: Miney Rowlson | June 25, 2007 7:15 AM
Hi Foxy!
Yes, I remember Gus, Nick, Nitzi and the gang at Claire & Carls. A huge treat for me in the late 40s and 50s was going to Nitzi's Red Hots and hearing my fathers call out to his friend, "Hi ya, Nitz!" I remember having crushes on the "cute" young guys behind the counter!
There is nothing in the USA like a Plattsburgh "Michigan". Believe me, when I go back, that's the first thing I'm going to eat when I get there!
Congrats on becoming a "Grandpa". Wow, I think that's wonderful. How lucky for the little one. Both of my grandfathers died when my parents were young, so I never knew them. I have seven grands, ages from 3 to almost 21 ... does "great-grandma" sound possible in the near furure? Funny, but I don't feel that old. My grandmothers were really old ladies ... maybe I catch glimpses of them now and then when look in the mirror. It's a great life if we don't weaken!
Hope you're enjoying your summer. It's been in the 90s here and every other day part of Nevada is on fire, but, I'm enjoying my life here in the "Wild West".
Lynda
Posted by: Lynda (Bouyea) Bevins | June 24, 2007 11:45 PM
I had the pleasure of enjoying many of your tasty fries and michigans in the late sixties. Your finesse on the grill and in the frier brought uncountable delights to locals and foreigners alike. I was always jealous that all the PSUC girls headed to Gus's to see the cute cook from a certain English Lit class.
(Foxy's note: Boy, Jim, you sure have a better memory than I on this one!)
Posted by: Jim | June 24, 2007 8:59 PM
Hi Foxy!
Long time no see! I just read one of your previous posts, and congrats on the upcoming grandchild! Dad (Rex) has been "Papa" for over 5 years and loves every minute of it! He keeps busy with Sara's two little ones, Mason, 5, and Rhonan, 1. Being a grandparent seems easy enough, when you are done spoiling them and the whining starts, send them back home to their parents! Congrats again, and if retirement is boring you, look Dad up, I'm sure he'd love to hear from you!
(Foxy's note: Nice to hear from Emily and many of the Blogoteers will recall her Dad, Rex Malpass.)
Posted by: Emily Malpass | June 24, 2007 6:05 PM